I have to say: it is hard work to get strong fingers! For me it is one of the most complex and tiresome training I know. There are a multitude of small muscles working together to make what we refer to as strong fingers and they all need attention if you want to gain strength. Tonights session was all about that and it hurts.. Not only because I suffer from a premature osteoarthritis in my finger joints caused by too much crimping, but also because of the small muscles tendency to get tired fast. So what I have to do is to design a session that takes just around one hour and fit 4-6 exercises that target different parts of the forearms. Since my goal is strength and not endurance right now I go for 4-5 sets with 3-5 repetitions.
Warmup with 4 sets x 6 reps ring rows, some mobility for the shoulders and antagonist training with a rubber band.
Easy bouldering for 15 minutes, open holds.
Fingerboard: 3 sets x 10 seconds half crimp hang on 10mm edge, 3 minutes rest between sets.
Hypergravity bouldering: +5kg weight around waist. Do 5 sets x 4 moves on pinches (2/hand). Rest 90 seconds between sets.
Heavy fingerrolls: 5 sets x 5 reps with approximately bodyweight (goal is to be able to do bodyweight x 2).Rest 2 minutes between sets.
Flip a weight: +5-10kg 4 sets x 10 reps/hand. Rest 90 seconds between sets.
Rope climbing: 5 sets x 1 ascent up/down campus (no feet) approximately 4 meter rope. Rest 2 minutes between sets.
This session will leave you tired and probably crushed the morning after if you are not used to it. For me, tomorrow will include some easy climbing and weightlifting, press is on the schedule.