Finally after nearly two weeks of vacation I got to go outdoors to climb real rock.The abundant rain has put some obstacles in the way of our climbing plans so far. Today we slept in and then went off to Skälefjäll, a beautiful site with routes of perfect quality granite. Conditions weren´t perfect so holding on to small crimps felt unnecessarily hard, but we still took turns on the route ”Electric Avenue” 8a, which is one of the most spectacular climbs I´ve ever tried. Even compared to fantastic routes down in Europe, this stands out. Stefan has already done it when it was a sport route but after the bolts were chopped about 2 years ago, due to the fact that it is possible to protect on natural gear, the challenge of doing it the traditional way is of course his goal. And there are placements no doubt. I did it on toprope with one fall two years ago and my hope is to be able to do it all the way although leading on natural protection isn´t an option for me right now..
When we had to leave due to the rain and too many mosquitos we met up with Hanna & Petter at home to do some more training. While they did hard moves on plastic holds I focused on getting through my press workout. And of course I had to push my husband in to doing deadlifts now that we have proper weights. It´s really the best exercise I know for full body strength and it makes you feel like a beast!
My training today looked like this all together;
Climbing 90 minutes
Press: warmup at 50% of 1RM, 5 x 5 at 75%, 5 x 5 at 80%, 5 x 5 at 85%. Add 5 x 10 reps at 50% of 1RM
Weighted pushups 5 x 6 at 80%