I think for the first time I feel completely satisfied after a full day of only crackclimbing! I´ve been having a really hard time figuring out the skill of this type of climbing even though I have one of Swedens best crackclimbers for a teacher.. I guess you have to want it for yourself before it works properly and so far I´ve had some weird resistance towards it. Maybe because it´s painful, technical and demands more skill than intuition? Sportclimbing and bouldering, for me, is a lot more about climbing instinctively. Crackclimbing is so much more about actually knowing how to place your hands and feet, wich way the thumb goes, up or down and how to put it all into a sequence. There is less room for error which makes it in, a way, cleaner and more delicate.
The rock we climbed today on Hallinden is very ruff and coarse and can be slippery in the heat. But conditions were ok and we put up a toprope on a route called ”Boomerang” 7b+/7c, it crosses a small overhanging roof in the start, leads up an easier middle part with good handjams and ends in a crimpy boulderproblem just before the top. I decided to really try and climb the route without ”cheating”: meaning no crimping or pinching where there actually is a handjam or fingerlock that I can use. After fighting a good while I managed to solve the overhanging part with proper technique and did the rest without greater difficulty. I felt happy and proud to say that I could climb the crux the way it is supposed to be done and not just relying on my pull up muscles to boulder my way up. Everyday you learn something is a day worth while, and today definitely was.
The sun has finally come out and we ended the day with a good old swim in the ocean, cold but lovely.