We climbed two days in a row this weekend and after being closed off from rockclimbing for almost two weeks due to rain I felt extremely battered yesterday. Saturday was a great day for learning new skills but left me wasted and yesterday I still wanted to try a long term project of mine at Skälefjäll, ”Odon”. I rarely get to work this amazing route since we don´t live here all year round and there are so many other areas we want to go to when here. The route is nearly 40 meters long and is composed of three prominent parts; a easier part about grade 7a up to a anchor in the middle, a middle part where you face a sensitive, crimpy crux with difficult footplacements, the last part is what you might call a slab where the footholds make all the difference and temperatures need to be just right. And it´s not over until the very last move.
My best session was about two summers ago when I headpointed it with only one stop after the first crux. The thing is this route demands a whole lot from whoever tries it; perfect balance and flawless footplacement, fingerstrength for tiny crimps, confidence and fearlessness since the bolts are far apart. Among other things.. So taking the step towards leading is big for me because I suffer from a great fear of falling and sadly from some fear of heights as well. All though I do believe it´s possible if I get the proper time to work it a bit more often and if I get the right weather conditions for it. The beta is very complex and we spent some time last night drawing it on paper and writing down the most important moves and points of importance. I hope and wish for it to happen some time, it´s kind of like a dream that I aim towards always in the back of my mind. Not because of the grade but because of the route itself. It has become like a living thing with its own personality, always beckoning me to try it one more time..
Yesterday was not the best day for this particular project, my skin was demolished and I felt very tired. But still happy to try it again after more than a year!