I have been following a fingerboard program since march and I have definitely increased my strength. Specially in the open hand- and half crimp position and this translates well to the full crimp as well. Having a premature osteoarthritis in my finger joints this is nothing I take for granted to be able to do, but it has worked really well and I have felt stronger than ever in my bouldering. Training on a fingerboard makes you stronger, no doubt, but it does not make you more powerful, meaning making a big move to a hold and being able to latch it fast and hold on. For this you need to do additional training either on the bouldering wall or even better on the campus board.. Power is really important in bouldering, and sportclimbing as well, and the possibility to try problems that have this type of character; big moves between bad holds, becomes lessened if you never actually practice it. Just as anything else in training.
I have been looking at the campus board for many years, feeling dread and a sense of inadequacy. I have tried at times to start training on it but always felt too weak to even begin a full training program. In fear of hurting my self I let it go and continued climbing as if it did not matter.. But I do realize that this has to change. Using the campus board as an important part of my training for climbing feels just like the right step to take. The increased strength I have gained thanks to the Transgression board http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.se/2012/04/transgression-fingerboard-for-high.html will definitely make it a bit easier to start campusing, you should not be hindered by lack of ability to even hang on to the edges before you start. So doing three weeks of fingerboard and following up with two weeks of campusing is a system I will try to infer as soon as I get back to the climbing gym.
My plan is to do a lot of bouldering this fall, I have several projects in Stockholm and I also hope to have the time to take a trip to Fontainebleau, Ticino or Albarracin in october. It would be a really good feeling if I had increased my ability to do powerful moves by that time and by no means is it impossible.. Believing is half the thing right?