I am not sure wether or not it is the actual fall I fear so intensely or if it is a fear of heights, being above the bolt looking down..? Either way I have a plan to make it easier from now on, I hope.. So far I have had the wrong approach, trying to hard and practicing falling with too much energy, not giving my scared brain the small doses it needs to adjust to the process. My thought now after reading the one of the greatest books on training for climbing ”Nine out of ten climber make the same mistakes” by Dave MacLeod, is to practice falling at the most once a week, pushing my comfort zone a little bit at a time. The plan is to expand my comfort zone more every week making it just a tad easier than the week before, but not expecting a miracle or waiting for the solution that will never come. So leading and falling on two to three routes and than going back to place I feel comfortable again. Keeping my confidence up and my positive energy rolling.
I know how to train for strength or endurance, I know how my body works but not so much my mind. It is a bit ironic.. But if I consider my brain to be somewhat similar to, say, my biceps, the whole thing becomes a bit less complicated. I don’t train my biceps seven days a week, pushing it to the limit every time! No, I do pullups with weights for biceps strength at the most once a week, knowing that this will increase my strength in a smooth and safe way. So if I keep this approach towards my mental training I believe it could be more successful.