A great weekend at the Stockholm climbing festival!

What a perfect weekend at the climbing festival, celebrating 40 years of climbing in Stockholm . We spent two full days at the crag, socializing with climbers from all over Stockholm and got to see some great ascents by Alexander Megos on sunday at Örnberget. It’s truly fantastic to watch a raw talent like him, how easy he appears to climb up routes most of us struggle for a long time, maybe even all of our lives, to manage. He made the first ascent of ”King of fucking everything” 8c at Örnberget, it took him only three tries.. He also onsighted ”Breaking the law” 8b and redpointed ”Breaking into heaven” 8b+, all within only a couple of hours! It’s really interesting to see his curiosity for different styles, never hesitating to challenge himself regardless of the angle of the rock. Most of us get stuck at a certain point due to the fact that we are too scared or lazy too try harder or try something new. It was also inspiring to watch other young talents like Oscar Krumlinde and Olle Ringstedt climbing hard routes at Örnberget and being brave at Häggsta when they climbed a challenging route on natural protection despite the fact that they have only little experience!

For myself I can also say that I am enjoying the fact that I seem to have expanded my comfort zone a great deal, now it feels fun to redpoint and try things on lead where I surely would have bailed out only a couple of weeks ago – I will give a full post on this next time.

I would like to thank Stockholms Klätterklubb for arranging this event and hope to see more meetings like this in the future! We truly need to work together to preserve the history of climbing in Sweden and introduce new climbers to this wonderful sport and also teach them the proper way to work for access to the crag. We might not have the greatest climbing in the world, but we have friendship and motivation that lasts.

Enjoying what might have been the last days of summer during the climbing festival at Häggsta.

Alexander Megos trying the difficult slab ”Svarta Änkan” at Örnberget, graded 7b+, though it might actually be more like 7c+. FA by Henrik Bolander, only repeated by Johan Luhr…
Strong as always, Oscar Krumlinde doing ”Sator” 8a

Alexander Megos making the impressive FA of ”King of fucking everything” 8c, Örnberget


Young talent Olle Ringstedt making a fine ascent of ”Bengts bultspricka” 6c+ on natural protection at Häggsta


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