Redpoint: painting the perfect picture

The process of red-pointing can be extremely frustrating! It takes time and a lot of energy; both mentally and physically. At times it feels like you will never be able to achieve the project route of your dreams, at other times you get so close you can actually feel the smell of the anchor. It is a process of development, learning and being focused in a way that nothing else really requires. I am not a brilliant on-sight climber but I can imagine the feeling of on-sighting well on your limit must be something like doing a perfect red-point. I like to compare the red-pointing to painting a picture or carving a sculpture out of clay; finding the small details that sum up to a perfection in the end, all though it might take some time and be a journey full of doubts, when it’s finished it’s like the hardships never where there and all you see and feel is the success and the finished product, the ascent.

I am working on ”Kosmos Kid” 7c+ at Dyviksudde in the archipelago of Stockholm. A beautiful red granite wall, steep and with solid rock. It’s somewhat of a classic route in Stockholm but not many women have done it or even worked on it, despite the fantastic quality. The character is tough; boulder-moves and sustained sections where you have to climb perfectly to stay on. Today I had my best highpoint ever; just one move from the very last hold before it’s actually over. Usually I tend to get a bit frustrated and sad after falling like this, but today I went home with a feeling of pride and positivity. Because now I know I can do it, I am not just hoping to be able.. I can’t wait to get back on it! I also had a great team of belayers and friends cheering me on, and that helped me push a bit harder.

Sometimes projecting can be so tiring, and you just want to give up. The route lives inside you, all day and all night. You dream of the moves, clipping, resting and getting to the top. The nervousness before trying can make your guts turn and your legs shake. But it’s just a way for the brain, the old brain that we humans carry, to get some excitement. In the end it helps you escape from the wild beast; meaning the route. I hope to get some dry weather again soon so I can try to escape from the predator one more time, hopefully making it all the way to security, finishing the painting and seeing the perfect picture as it’s been assembled.

IMG_1067
The whole route in one picture

 

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