Moving forward; training & screening

So, I celebrated my sought after send with a visit to a massage therapist today. I’ve been having headaches and a stiff neck and it seems I’m in need of some extra TLC from myself right now. The treatment proved to me that I do have some issues to attend to; being unbalanced in my shoulders and neck. I’ve decided to give this some serious thought and invest in a proper screening for my whole body. Training as much as I do surely puts a lot of wear-and-tear on my tendons, the muscular system as well as being tiring at times. I always spend time training properly and hard, but seldom take the time to let someone help me with muscles that hurt or feel stiff.

I didn’t give myself one day of rest after doing the project but rather felt it was fun to be able to go to the gym and do a really heavy finger-strength session and some body strength without risking becoming too tired for the route. I’m looking forward to starting a new cycle of training where I’ll put my focus on raw strength for 4 weeks, power for 4 weeks and power endurance for 2 weeks as well as mental training during the whole cycle. That will take me through christmas at least! After a bit of thinking (as I am my own coach!) my sessions will be organized as follows. If you find any of this nerdy training stuff interesting I’ll provide you with my basic training plan below:

– Strength 3 weeks (increase volume & intensity every week!)

Strength resistance x2 (meaning weighted pull-ups, dips, press, uneven pull-ups, deadlifts etc)

Hang-board & system-wall x2 

Hard bouldering x2 (limit level bouldering for maximum strength)

Cardiac output x1 (running)

– Power 3 weeks (increase volume & intensity every week!)

Strength Resistance Training x1 (weighted pull-ups, dips, press, uneven pull-ups, deadlifts etc)

Power Resistance Training x1 (clean & jerk, thrusters, kb snatches etc)

Climbing Power Session x1 (power bouldering, campus, dynos etc)

Hard bouldering x1 (limit level bouldering)

Hangboard Strength x1

Cardiac output x1

– Power endurance 2 weeks

Climbing Power Session x1

Limit-level Bouldering x1

Hangboard Strength x1

Climbing interval session x2 (steep climbing 15 moves, hard enough to get pumped without falling off meaning close to limit!)

Cardiac output x1

– Mental training, ongoing. throughout the whole cycle. 

Practicing falling on lead at least once a week

Practicing basic technique skills during the warm up in every session (knee drop, swop feet, straight arms, breathing etc)

Practicing flashing and reading routes/problems during 1-2 sessions/week

Practicing visualization & relaxation before and during climbing 1-2 sessions/week

If you feel like giving this a go; good luck and give it all you’ve got! 🙂

Weighted pullups
Weighted pullups


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