After more than a month without climbing on real rock this week we finally got to crush! Jumkil on thursday and Nyckelviken today. It fell out so Jumkil was entirely Stefans day since it was just too cold for me; but he sent ”Volt” 7B+/7C with ease and looked really strong on the right version called ”Ampere” 8A. I cheered on but mostly put my effort into keeping my hands and toes warm enough.. A nice area that I hope to return to!
Today although was perfect for me! 7 degrees centigrade, sunny and dry. We went out to Nyckelviken close to our home in Nacka and I got to send ”No fucking joke” 7A+/7B. It’s a very tricky ramp with slopers that surely turns to the worse when it’s too hot or too humid and I’ve had plenty of tries in bad conditions, so today it felt great to latch the slopers and just hang on thanks to the low humidity. It’s also hard to grade this ramp since it’s so dependent on friction and also becomes harder if you are short as I am, making it 7B for me but probably 7A+ for most average to tall people. Tobbe psyched me up before sending by performing a proper Maori Haka http://youtu.be/BI851yJUQQw which is a traditional war preparation, simply getting mentally tough for fighting.
It’s nice to touch some real rock after weeks of training hard, with really no other aim than to get superstrong.. Sometimes it’s hard to motivate yourself for indoor climbing and keeping the focus alive, but having a few days like this out in nature makes it all seem worth while and I remember why I am training so hard.