8 mm but not enough confidence?

After a year of training on the Transgression hangboard I’m ready to make some conclusions on the effects I experience and also what those have lead me to realize about my climbing.

1. I’ve gained just about 5 kg of added weight on edge 18 mm, which isn’t much and shows just a slight improvement as well as showing I should be able to get a lot stronger.

2. I’ve gone from edge 12 mm to edge 8 mm in the hangs without weight. This is a big improvement and proves a good physical and technical adaptation as well as a gain in my confidence.

3. I feel a fantastic transfer to the climbing wall and the crag in specific holds such as crimps, half crimps and open hand. My maximum strength but also contact strength has definately improved!

4. I don’ t feel this transfer on bigger holds such as pinches and slopers; this area still being my biggest weakness in fingerstrength. Proving to me at least I have to train this more specifically.

5. Focusing on fingerstrength on the Transgression and the systemwall has been fantastic for my local forearm hypertrophy and strength but it’s left the rest of my climbing untouched in improvement. Sure I’ve sent some projects but I’m not feeling that overall gain in my performance.

I feel that the biggest areas where I still have to work so much harder are: mental training, technique, dynamics, core strength and lock off strength.

Mental training is the hardest nut to crack since there are little or no simple tools available if you’re not a competition climber having a coach near by. I have an expert climber as a partner but he’s not trained in understanding the complexity of mental training and the hardships it carries with it. It’s a lot harder than it may seem to be aware of your mental obstacles and work at them at the same time as you’re in the movement… I’m certain my level of climbing would be raised significantly if these issues where to be solved, releasing my confidence and self trust to help me crush!

The most important lesson the Transgression board has taught me is that it’s easier than I thought to train systematically and get stronger; this has laid a great foundation for me to grow from and from where I will plan my training for the upcoming year.

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