My project route for 2014 is ”Odon” at Skälefjäll in Bohuslän and it’s a route I’ve dreamt of doing for many years and spent time headpointing but sadly never mastered the guts to go for the lead. The bolts are safe but a bit far apart for my taste and the movements are subtle, sensitive and extremely hard making it so that I will have to gather all of my competence as a climber and truly trust my feet and my technique as well as my finger strength and endurance. I’ve seen some climbers who perform at a much higher level than me not being able to do the middle crux and that scares me a bit even though I’ve done it myself so many times at this point. But now I feel super psyched to start trying for real and having more time in Bohuslän makes it all so much more motivating. It can be really helpful to make a short mindmap of the route and I figured I would share it with you; the route deserves more climbers trying it, so far there’s only a handful that I know of having sent it.
The first half consists of an easier, trad-like pitch that leads up to an anchor where there’s a really good rest, all day if you’d like, a both soothing and troubling fact since it can make me hesitate before entering the much harder pitch above.. Following the ledge comes the part I dread the most (or make up stories about at least!); an undercling layback on good holds but non-existing feet, tiring to clip and complex to climb. After this you enter a distinctive but head on crux; a hard boulder problem on small crimps and even worse footholds, this is where many climbers give up on the route but it’s actually my favorite part!
Another superb rest after this point leads up to the finishing slab where friction makes all the difference and where you need to keep the body tension tight and not loose focus or forget beta; stepping on invisible edges and bullet holes while holding on to the same. And it’s not over till it’s over, the very last moves are some of the hardest on the entire route; the moves are stretched out for my tiny stature and also fingery! But what a finish and it makes it all worth while as it’s actually possible to just mantle over the top and sit down above the anchor looking at a view spanning the horizon of the western sea. I’ve visualized myself many times being at the top having done the route in one push and felt it happening in my mind; a necessity for being able to send at all, if I don’t believe it it’s not very likely I’ll actually make it..
The whole route in one shot, running straight through the middle of the picture
The layback ramp leading up from the anchor at pitch 1 to the hard crux, doesn’t look very demanding when sitting in my sofa looking at the picture but the eye deceives reality..!