Entering the red zone

There’s a special feeling when you know you’re getting close on a project route, after dreaming of it for some time there’s suddenly a feeling that it can go and that you do have the ability to send even though the route might have seemed impossible to begin with. The route starts creeping in under your skin and gets a life of its own; speaking to you even when you’re asleep, showing the moves in slow motion and letting you taste the sense of getting to the top before it’s actually happened.. Some say that onsighting is the purest form of climbing since you need to gather all of your competence, strengths and technique as a climber to make a perfect push first go. I agree but I can’t help but loving the process of redpointing once it gets to this zone where all your thoughts and energy works toward the goal of managing the free climb.. It still feels new every time but it’s also a feeling you recognize from many ascents before. I can definately feel a shift happening in my climbing this season; from climbing with a somewhat naive wishful thinking to focusing on climbing at my best, with precision and dedication.

Stefan sent his nemesis ”Legalize it” at Skälefjäll today and I had great progress on my own ”Odon” while headpointing, encouraged by good friction and a light feeling in my body. The route has some tasty runouts bolted by H. Bolander why I’m working the sequences on toprope; but now I feel as close as I can get and there’s no reason other than vertigo to go for the lead! The climbing here in Bohuslän is truly inspiring and makes me want to become better as a climber and most of all; climb more. One of which I feel certain of will be possible..



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