”Odon” update

Finally the weather and my level of comfort has been more optional for starting redpointing ”Odon” 8a at Skälefjäll. I got up pitch no 1 without even feeling any strain, which is as it should be since it’s the easiest part of the route, but also a beautiful line alone. After taking a proper rest at the ”thank god ledge”, just at the anchor of this route I started moving up toward the hardest most demanding crux of pitch no 2.

The first clip felt easy and when I got to the clip I’ve been dreading I suddenly found myself having climbed a bit past it into the crux moves from where clipping is unthinkable. So I gave in to my fear and grabbed the quickdraw, not even allowing myself a proper fall but slumping in my harness a bit surprised over how stupid that decision really was.. After this I slided through the crux and decided I would climb the rest of the route with the mindset of finding ”fear-spots”, places or sequences where I most likely risk getting scared. If I know these spots I have a better chance of working them in my minds eye; visualizing and preparing better for my next push. It turned out I have two more fear-spots or at least one and a half just near the top.. The distance between the bolts is by no means dangerous on this route but enough to make me feel a bit dizzy and wobbly; knowing a fall would definitely make me feel uncomfortable.

When I came down I felt very satisfied just having found the proper mindset to go for the lead and I also feel extremely satisfied that my physical and technical ability feels solid throughout the whole route. Now it’s just the final piece of the puzzle, the mental game, that needs polishing. When a climbing friend back down on the ground was kind to tell me he was impressed I would go for the lead on such a hard route, when I suffer this kind of fear, I felt slightly embarrassed since I’m at the point where the route itself starts to feel almost, not really, but almost easy and his compliment fell a bit flat inside. And I know this is suppose to happen, it always does when redpointing and it’s one part of the charm when you start to know the climb as good as the isles at the supermarket.. I’m enjoying the process and hope my next try will be even more fruitful!

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