I’ve always been really bad at on sighting, I mean really bad! It’s just one of my worst and less practiced skills in climbing. The hardest route I’ve done on my first go is well below what I ”should” be doing, if there is such a thing.. The main reason for this is the fact I’ve never been brave enough to practice it. It scares me to death not knowing what comes next and where to put my quick draws; not knowing if I’ll be tall enough to reach them or if my clipping position will be ten times harder due to the length issue I battle at times.
But I’ve come to the conclusion that the best thing to do is to drop in difficulty and go for the easier routes where I don’t necessarily have to worry about the moves at all, rather just getting used to being above the bolt and feeling free to climb with flow and ease. You might not believe it but this isn’t something I’ve ever really done despite the fact I’ve been climbing for more than ten years! I’m always the one red pointing, putting up topropes or just having excuses for feeling too out of shape to go for the lead even on routes well below my ability. But no more! The crags I’ve visited so far in Gothenburg has really inspired me to try harder; not just to climb harder but to try routes on sight and accept the consequences.
As far as I know there seems to be a tradition in climbing that goes far back where on sights are more worthy and respected in their nature than perhaps red points. In my case I still love the process of doing hard red points and I wouldn’t give it up; the feeling of conquering a route at your limit after having figured it all out and practiced is comparable to training for a competition and than making a really good performance at the stage. The process can get tedious but oh so rewarding once it’s over. So a good combination of more on sight climbing and hard red points is definitely my goal for the future. It might seem to most a mediocre goal but in my world a big step towards growing up.