I would´t say finger strength is the most important part of climbing.. But it sure is a good thing to maintain during a period of rest or when injury elsewhere keeps you from climbing. Since I haven´t climbed much at all during the last 6 months I was afraid I had lost much of my finger strength from the hard training I had done the previous year. But for reasons I have yet to learn this type of strength seems lasts for a good while and more than anything it returns very quickly, at least for me. I suppose it has a lot to do with motor skills as well as the local muscle adaptation, so the neurological pathways shaped during my intense training period last year are easliy woken up and now seem to ask me where I´ve been..
At this moment in time my motivation is high and I hope to be able to go climbing a whole lot more this season than what I did last spring, so I’ve decided to give it a good shot to get back in shape. But without the manic does and don’t´s that killed my passion last time.. My plan is to go for quality more than quantity this time and see where it takes me. I’ve always liked experimenting with my own training and this hasn’t changed. When I think about it I don’t think I’ve ever tried the very minimum of focused training for climbing I can do and still see results? What better time than now!
2-4 days of climbing per week and at least two of these sessions will be fingerboard training and sport specific skills and strength/endurance for climbing. But to keep the good spirit I know I will want to continue my powerlifting and other types of training where I don’t really have any expectations. More than anything I will try not to be the best I can be at climbing; it just makes me weaker.. To be all good things that I can be is better, meaning I want to keep myself happy, strong, focused, mobile, injury free, motivated, passionate and curious of climbing.